Journal Ireland

Baile an Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter)
Cuan Ard na Caithne Smerwick Harbor)
Dún an Óir (Fort del Oro)
15 to 19 July

On Monday 15 July, Janet's Irish class starts in Dingle. I stay back, explore Ballyferriter on Monday, and again on Thursday. Thursday the exploration is led by an Irish speaking guide, only there are but two of us being guided, neither of us native Irish, and so only the basics are Irish.

Ballyferriter, from the west

I have learned this: Baile an Fheirtéaraighth means Ferriter's townland; its pronunciation in Irish is mind-bogglingly different from the English, with silent letters, gutturals, and odd rules; I did not learn to pronunce it, feeling triumphant just learning how to spell it, until leaving Ireland, (I listened, but...) I now have listened to recordings and to my ear it sounds like ballla -h'nok t'air-ig; one source for this is this page of Irish place names. Fh is silent.

There is more than a bit of debate, (and on Thursday I heard some of it) over why it is even called this in the first place: centuries ago Ferriter was a wealthy landowner a mile or two away.

Smerwich Harbor, looking to The Three Sisters

History appears in this area (and all of Ireland) in several ways. It is heard in place names and spoken language. It is seen and interpreted in ruins and memorials. It appears in the plants.

On both Monday and Thursday I walked down a narrow farm road to Smerwick beach. On Monday, by myself, I particularly noticed plants, for I recognized almost all of them and yet many seemed incongruous. Their story will come in a later post, except to note that Smerwick is an old English word for Arbutus, the European strawberry tree related to the Madronas of the Western USA. Of them I saw none.

On Thursday our guide takes us across the beach and up a road, and revealed stories hidden in the ground. At a jagged promentory jutting into the western part of Smerwick bay is Dún an Óir, (Fort of Gold), the remains of a small fort, but to my eyes it is just an uneven sheep field. A stone monument stands by the field, carved with many faces, an Irish (only) inscription on the back.

Northeast view of Smerwick bay

The story is this. Over 400 years ago one of the rebellions of Catholics in Ireland against Protestant England included invasion and counterinvasion at this harbor. The defeated Spanish and Irish soldiers -- several hundred of them and some of their families -- were beheaded by the English victors, their bodies cast into the sea. The story was reported, not always believed. But as the 400 year anniversary neared, archeologists unearthed a field of skulls, and in time this monument was erected.

Our guide led us through the field to view the headlands. It is a spectacular setting to a grim tale. Those interested in reading further are directed to the link that follows.